A slice of heaven...

I don't stop when I'm in Tokyo. So I save my visit to Kanda Yabu Soba when I need a quiet day, and some distance from the fast pace of Tokyo. It's a little piece of serenity in Kanda Awajicho, Chiyoda-ku; adjacent to the busy district of Akihibara [Electric Town] and somewhat of a bizarre contrast.

Kanda Yabu Soba first opened it's doors in 1880 and has been serving it's "seiro" style soba noodles [firm noodles made from 10 parts buckwheat flour to one part wheat flour] ever since. I still feel stunned every time I visit, by the beautiful traditional building and gardens. The peaceful atmosphere begins even before you pass through the front gate.

Once your order has been placed, it is chanted/sung to the kitchen by the person at the front counter and Tsukidashi is bought to the table. I get the impression that some things haven't changed over the years. Tsukidashi is a little dish that's served with sake or beer. For this course, Kanda Yaku Soba serve their own thick, dark, salty homemade miso paste which is absolutely delicious and excellent with cold beer.

Dr H ordered one of his favourites: soba in a broth with mushrooms and topped daikon, nori and herbs. He ordered thinly sliced roast wild duck as a side dish and served with a hot mustard. I ordered soba in a broth with green onions and a side of 2 types of tofu. Everything was fresh and tasted wonderful.

This course was accompanied by Soba-yu [the water in which the soba is cooked] and is considered to be rich in minerals and good for your health. It is served in a teapot and can be drunk or added to Soba-tsuyu [the dipping sauce for cold soba] to make a soup, once the cold soba is eaten. Soba-yu has a lovely sort of sweet, nutty flavour and makes a great accompaniment to the food.

For the final course we ordered buckwheat cake to share. Great buckwheat flavour and not too sweet.

We sat in the tatami room, with a view to the garden, on this particular day but table seating is also available. The staff and service are wonderful - I always feel so spoiled. Foreign visitors are very well cared for. Some English is spoken and English menus are available. Absolutely unmissable.

Where:
2-10 Kanda Awajicyo, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo

When: 11.30am-8.00pm

Phone :03 3251 0287

http://www.norenkai.net/english/shop/yabusoba/index.html

The real thing...

Raishuken, in Asakusa, has been serving authentic ramen for nearly 50 years. The quality is great, the servings are large and the prices are cheap.

The omori [pictured] is a fresh, handmade wavy noodle in a delicious soy braised broth. The texture of the noodle was tender with a wonderful light, texture. Dr H said the pork was beautifully tender and flavoursome. The steamed dumplings, a kind gift from the owner, are filled with a starchy vegetable and served with soy poured over the top and a hot mustard. Delectable and nearly more than we could eat.

The restaurant itself is a small room with echoes of the 50's. One wall [pictured] is devoted to caricatures and drawings. Sadly I couldn't read the script but I assume they are from grateful customers, some more notable perhaps than others.

The staff are very friendly and welcoming. English is not spoken and the menu is in Japanese but, if this is a problem, just ask for ramen and I'm sure the staff will do their best to look after you.

Where:

Taito-Ku, Nishi-Asakusa 2-26-3 [PH: 3844 7409]

On the subway, take the Ginza or Asakusa line to Asakusa station. Take the Senso-ji Temple exit [look for the signs in English]. Once on the main street [Kaminarimon-dori] go left towards the temple. Continue walking past the gate entry to the temple until you reach the next main street [Kokusai-dori]. Cross the street and turn right. Continue walking for a few blocks. Raishuken is down a laneway on the left [approximately opposite Denny's restaurant, at the time of writing] and will be marked 2-26-3. You may need to go down a couple of laneways to find it but it will be well worth your trouble.

When:

Wednesday - Monday
12.00pm - 7.00pm

Regular holiday is Tuesday

Combine cafe...

Combine is a contemporary cafe located on the canal-like river at Naka-meguro, a residential district of Tokyo known for its great shopping, 'hip/cool' vibe and cherry blossoms. The area around Combine is peaceful and leafy - it's hard to believe you are a very short block from the noisy main road.

The menu borrows from many influences and has an international feel. On the day that I visited there wasn't a vegetarian option but the staff were happy to arrange a tofu salad, which was very nice. This was followed by coffee and cheesecake. It was a lovely relaxed place to pass the time on a rainy day.

Naka-meguro is well worth a visit. The banks of the river are lined with cherry blossoms and this pretty area is transformed into something totally spectacular in spring. Another feature along the river are the small independent retailers - great shopping and cafes.

How to get there?
Catch the Tokyu Toyoko Line from Shibuya Station. Go one stop to Naka- meguro station.

How to find Combine cafe:
Cross over the main road from the station. Turn right and walk along the main road for approximately 2 blocks until you reach Komazawa-dori. Turn left walk a short distance and take first right. Walk along the river for approximately 50 metres [see 2nd picture for exterior photo]

Japanese grapes...

These huge, luscious grapes are grown in Japan and were wonderful to eat. The variety seems particular to Japan or at least that's how it seems. The nashi were also exceptional. A much larger variety than we see in Australia and very juicy. Both were readily at department store food halls and fruit and vege shops.

A touch of France in Tokyo...

French [and Italian] cuisine is popular in Tokyo. These 'too perfect to eat' macaroons made a beautiful display in Aoyama Dori. Lovely to take back to your hotel.

Take it away!

Too tired from a big day, taking in all that Tokyo has to offer? Well, if you're heading through Ginza station on your way home, why not make a quick stop at the Matsuya department store food hall, basement level, and pick up some of these irresistible gyoza [AUD $8 for 6 large]. You'll be on the next subway and back at your hotel before you know it! So convenient - dinner is solved.

The chef also made the pickles, which I couldn't stop eating. I wasn't able to identify the vegetable, although I was reminded of choko. There's so much to choose from at the department store food halls, it's often very difficult to reach a decision resulting in repeated laps of the aisles. It's all amazingly desirable.

Also check out the Mitsukoshi department store at Mitsukoshi-mae station, which is handy for subway travellers changing to another line as there's an entry to the food hall from the subway. The feel at Mitsukoshi is more formal but the choices are as extensive and the quality is high. A slice of heaven!

To say that there isn't any cheap food to be found in Tokyo, is to quote a popular myth. It's everywhere from the little noodle shops down lanes and under railway lines, sushi shops down in the 2nd basement, food halls and ramen shops at the larger subway stations. So keep your eyes open. It's all around you.

More mushrooms ....

So many mushrooms....

I always check out the extensive range of fungi whenever I'm in Tokyo, which must be a source of amusement for the Japanese shoppers as I stare in wonderment at the variety, freshness and cheap, cheap prices. It's a strange mix of elation and disappointment as I can't buy any because I have nowhere to cook. Yes, I have contemplated eating them straight from the pack and cutting out the middleman. I wouldn't mind at all.

Tempura at Miyakawa, Aoyama

Miyagawa is a lovely little restaurant in Aoyama that serves Kansai-style tempura and apparently has had a loyal following of regulars for over 40 years.

My favourite place to sit is at the counter so that I can watch the chefs work, but there are a couple of tables if you prefer.

For lunch there are two options: ten-don [delicious rice topped with mouth watering tempura, 1500 yen] and tempura lunch set [2300 yen]. The chef was happy to make mine vegetarian and the result was inspirational!

The seasonal flowers and vegetables were fresh [as was the seafood on display] and the tempura, crisp and light. Included that day was a chrysanthamum flower, crysanthamum leaves, ginger flower buds, garlic cloves, a clump of mushrooms, green chilli, eggplant, pumpkin, a type of sweet potato and a small round green vegetable threaded onto a skewer [a type of eggplant?]. Soup, tea and 3 kinds of pickles are also served with the set.

The service is great and the staff are really friendly. Well of course we had to go back for a second time!

Nearest station: Omote - Sando [Cross to the other side of the street and continue left away from the intersection. Continue down the street past Prada and Comme de Garcons until you reach the main road. Miyakawa sits on this corner in a small, white building. The entry is through a single door at the top of a few stairs.]

Address: Palace Aoyama 1 F 6-1-6 Minumi-Aoyama, Minato-Ku, Tokyo

Telephone: 03-3400-3722

Hours: 11.30am-2.00pm, 5.00pm-9.00pm; Closed Sunday